Ski touring in Seceda
An exciting panorama in the heart of the Dolomites: the view from Monte Seceda towards the Dolomite peaks of the Odle is something unique. The slanting slopes of the summer pastures rise skywards and are suddenly interrupted by walls, rocky precipices, and soaring towers of dolomite rock. We are in the Puez-Odle Nature Park, between Val Gardena and Val di Funes, in the province of Bolzano, in one of the most iconic places in the Dolomites.
The winter trail to reach Seceda can be followed either on foot (with snowshoes or without, depending on the snow cover) or with skins, and runs close to the ski lifts and ski slopes of the Val Gardena ski resort (for the descent on skis, it is therefore possible to ski down the slopes: a better option in periods when the snow cover is generally poor).
We thus set off on our skis to ascend the forest road from Daunei (1,675 m), located just above Selva di Val Gardena. In the first section, we find ourselves on a forest road of packed snow, which does, however, have numerous icy spots, given the lack of significant snowfall in the last few weeks of wintry weather. The path connects Daunei with the Juac Lodge (at 1,905 m), which is open during the winter period, and then continues with a few ascents and descents to the Firenze Lodge, at 2,040 m (closed during the winter period).
We continue uphill on skis into the forest, with the Sassolungo massif constantly appearing behind us, while the view ahead gradually opens out over the Odle, towards wide white expanses.
After the Firenze Lodge, the track becomes thinner, remaining comfortable to walk along on skis and easily recognisable. The trail thus leads us towards Col Raiser, the mountain station of the cable car that ascends from the village of Santa Cristina in Val Gardena.
From here, we continue for a short distance along the ski slopes, and then follow the signposts indicating the route of a winter hiking trail. Our next destination is the Troier Lodge, a small, typical lodge nestling in the white, slightly offset from the ski slopes, but connected to them by a narrow ski trail.
The plan for the day would have been to finish our ascent here, but the view of Mount Seceda in the distance behind the lodge encourages us to continue. So, we put our ski skins back on to glide uphill on the snow, which has a compact, stiff mantle.
We proceed by sight towards some small, isolated huts of the summer alpine pastures, always moving with the reference of the ski slopes, which now constantly accompany us on our left not far away.
Ascending in altitude, we find the only remaining traces of fresh snow near a small wooden hut, where we stop for a quick packed lunch. The last part of the ascent is steeper, but our PowPow winter poles support us as we make our way up without losing our balance, thanks in part to their maximum grip and the ease with which they can be adjusted in length, making them adaptable to every occasion: perfect both uphill and downhill.
We reach a small grassy saddle just below the Seceda peak: from here it is no longer possible to continue, as it is not permitted to cross the slope with skis on the ascent. And so, that is how we can admire the vertical and sharp dolomite peaks of the Odle from such a peculiar perspective that we are captivated. Not to mention the 360-degree panorama, which allows us to see as far as many Dolomite groups: Sciliar, Catinaccio, Sassolungo, Sella, Puez, Marmolada, up to the peak of Cimon della Pala in the Pale di San Martino. A true panoramic terrace not to be missed.
While our gaze still lingers on the panorama, a quick change of clothes and trim allows us to be ready for the descent. A descent in which we fully appreciate every single bend, with our gaze constantly moving from the bottom to the top, and towards the rocky wonder that surrounds us.
